TP WOODSHOP ORIENTATION

The purpose of this document is to provide a common reference of the content of the Wood Shop orientation for Trainers and Wood Shop Users.

The Wood Shop is an amenity of Timber Pines and is operated and maintained by the users.

In order to promote safety, reduce the possibility of injury and damage or misuse of the tools within the Wood Shop, each member who wishes to use the Wood Shop must attend an orientation session, sign a legal waiver and complete the acknowledgement of orientation form. The member then will be able to obtain an entrance FOB for access into the shop during open hours. The FOB has a one time cost of $20.00. Orientation sessions are held on Mondays and last about 90 minutes.

The FOB belongs to the user and is not to be shared or loaned to anyone. It is not to be used to allow anyone else into the Wood Shop. When used the time and date of use is recorded automatically.

The Wood Shop is opened Tuesday through Saturday from 8:00 in the morning and closes at 9:00 at night and on Sunday from 8:00 until 6:00. It is closed on Mondays for maintenance, cleaning, tool repair, and training. The second and fourth Mondays are reserved for Knife Medic sharpening sessions.

Use of the FOB at the sensor to the right of the entry door releases a magnetic. lock allowing entry. At the entry door only the right side door opens. From the inside the right side door is permanently locked. The magnetic lock resets after about 10 seconds once the door closes. There is a motion detector above the door inside the shop that releases the magnetic lock allowing exit. Once the door closes there is a ten second delay before the door relocks. The lock is also deactivated if there is a power failure or when the fire alarm system is activated.

A second set of doors at the back of the shop can be used as an emergency exit by opening the left door with the panic bar. This door can also be used to bring in supplies or other items from the parking lot once the user has made entrance with the FOB. It is important to make sure this door is securely closed if it has been used.

A telephone is available above the sign in register. If it is needed to respond to an emergency, call 911 directly – do not call Security. Calling Security will only delay contacting 911. When you call 911 they will contact Security.

If an injury occurs, there is an emergency first aid cabinet on the closet door at the back of the shop. The sink next to the closet is equipped with an eye wash/flush system.

Upon entering the shop, the user is requested to log in to the sign in register on the desk to the right of the entry door. The register is used to identify the use rate of the shop and provide contact information if needed due to an event in the shop.

Safety is of high importance. Eye protection is required at all times. Hearing protection is to be used when any stationary machine connected to the vacuum system is being operated. You must provide your own glasses. If your prescription glasses have polycarbonate lenses, they are acceptable. The shop provides ear plugs if you wish to use them instead of earmuff type hearing protection. They are located near the log in register.

Appropriate clothing is necessary. Avoid loose or flowing garments. Sandals, flip flops, house slippers, bare feet or similar footwear is prohibited.

At the closet door at the back of the shop is a well equipped safety cabinet. lf you have a small injury or other need please use it.

The sink is equipped with an eyewash station if needed.

Paper towels are available above the sink.

TREATED LUMBER is not allowed in the shop. This is applies to both old and the newer ‘safe’ treated lumber. If you have a job requiring TREATED LUMBER, we will assist you by setting things up outside the shop.

Four machines are restricted to clean, new wood only. The machines are the planer, the cabinet makers saw, the jointer and the drum sander. New wood includers rough sawn lumber from a sawmill or the wood purchased at hardware stores. Do not use pallet wood, old fence material or anything that could have metal, rocks or other debris embedded in it.

Cleanliness goes hand in hand with safety. Most of the fixed machines are connected to the vacuum system. If a machine is connected to the vacuum system, it is MANDANTORY to turn the vacuum system on. If the system is not used, the ports can become plugged requiring someone to clean them out. When the system is used, open the appropriate gate, check around the shop to ensure other gates are closed. You want to have the best draw available to reduce the amount of dust scatter and subsequent clean up. Once you have finished using a machine, there are small vacuums, shop brushes, brooms and other equipment available to clean up the tool you used. Clean all around the tool including behind and below. Sweep the floor and collect the debris. Return the cleaning tools to their storage locations. Make sure the vacuum gate is closed.

There are many hand tools in various locations. When you have completed your work, return the tool to its storage location. Do not leave the tool(s) laying around. This is a discourtesy to other users and a possible safety issue.

Most of the portable tools are available for take home use. NOT INCLUDED ARE THE DEWALT BATTERY OPERATED TOOLS. There is a tool check out log near the sign in log. Please enter your information. There is no restriction on length of use, but the log can be used to ask you how long you expect to retain the item by another user. When you return the tool, put it in its proper location and record the return in the log.

Proper use of the tools will prolong their life and help you attain the results you want. If you are unsure about a tools use, there is a list of ‘Helpers” on the entrance door and on the bulletin board outside the shop. Call someone. Everyone on the list will happily assist you.

If you are not getting the results you want and believe the tool is not adjusted correctly, there is a tool report log. Enter your issue in the log. It is checked frequently, and issues addressed. It also helps determine if the issue is how you are using the tool or what results you are expecting. If that is the case someone will contact you and help clarify things. Placing a call to a Helper will speed up attaining a solution to the issue.

Despite good practices, proper maintenance and use, tools do break. When this occurs, enter the issue in the report log. You will probably be contacted for more complete information on how the tool failed and how you were using the tool to determine correction needed. There is no penalty for being involved in a tool failure IF YOU REPORT IT. If you walk away from a failed tool and ignore reporting it, that is a violation of rules, a discourtesy to other users and will result in a fine.

The shop is equipped with security cameras and will be used to identify rule violations. If necessary, violations can result in $100.00 fine and loss of shop privileges for 8 weeks.

The stationary power tools have a REST or READY position. The purpose is to help protect the tool, have it set in a neutral condition for the next user and indicates to others that you are concerned about maintaining the shop correctly.

Located with most of the stationary tools are two documents. One is “good practices” or “user guidelines” the other a photograph of the tool labeling most operating features. Take time to review and become familiar with these items for each machine.

There are many cabinets and drawers containing various tools, books of plans and reference material, supplies, consumables, etc. They are pointed out during orientation. Most have the contents identified by labels but be curious, open things up and look. If you need something and can’t find it, call one of the HELPERS.

There is a large selection of corded hand tools stored under the workbench between the compound miter saws. Again, they are available for check out and use at home. THE DEWALT BATTERY OPERATED TOOLS ARE NOT AVAILABLE FOR CHECKOUT. There is a wide variety of clamps, and all can be checked out. Any tool on the hand tool wall is available for check out. The drawers in the workbench between the table saws contain more hand tools.

Regarding nails, screws, etc. the shop has a large selection of drywall screws near the drill presses. You are welcome to use any you need. The shop does not keep any other inventory of nuts, bolts, screws, nails, etc. due to the difficulty in maintaining organization and variety.

The shop does not maintain any wood or other materials other than what is used to improve the shop. Please do not bring your scraps, leftovers, contributions or other thoughtful items to the shop. There is a small amount of wood held under the table saw workbench to be used for stops, set ups and/or other disposable needs.

Regarding the fixed machines and the orientation sign off acknowledgement:

DRILL PRESS – LARGE

The drill press is used to put round holes in your work. This drill press has a keyless chuck that works just like your hand drill might work. You insert the drill bit into the chuck and twist the upper ring and lower collet in opposite directions to secure the drill bit. This machine is capable of changing the speed but at this time is set a medium speed that will accommodate most uses. Generally, the larger the tool being used the slower the speed. If a speed change is needed, call a helper. The green button turns the machine on, the red turns it off. There is a table light switch, and a set of laser cross hairs that are very accurate for almost all uses. The three arm levers are used to advance the tool into the work. You can secure the work to the table or freehand depending upon what you are doing. To drill repeated holes to the same depth, release the black knob on the right, lower the drill to the depth desired, rotate the serrated ring behind knob counterclockwise until it stops and the secure the knob. When you are finished using the drill press, make sure the knob is not secured. The table can be moved up and down and rotated out of the way. There is a lock lever in the back. Be sure to release it before attempting to use the crank to raise or lower the table. Once the table is in position desired, secure the lock.

EXPLAIN:

• How to insert tool – keyless chuck
• On switch – green
• Off switch – red
• Table light
• Laser cross hairs
• Advance tool – 3 arm lever
• Raise/lower table – release loc – turn crank – lock down
• Repeatable depth – release lock -black knob – advance and hold lever to depth - rotate serrated ring counterclockwise until it stops – relock black knob
• Change speeds – not possible due to wrong belt installed

DRILL PRESS - SMALL

The small drill press is essentially the same as the large one with the following differences: The chuck is a standard keyed chuck. Be sure to remove the key from the chuck before turning the press on. To change the speed, release the motor tension by loosening the securing screw. Open the top, reposition the belt to achieve the desired speed. The belt must be horizontal, not on an angle. Close the lid and put the tension back on the motor. Setting the constant depth stop is similar with the black lock knob.

EXPLAIN:

• Insert tool - keyed chuck
• On switch – on left side
• Off switch – on left side
• Advance tool – lever on right
• Raise/lower table – release lock -turn crank – relock
• Change speeds – release motor – move belt – relock motor

RED MECHANICS TOOL CABINET FOR DRILL PRESS TOOLS

The drawer cabinet next to the drill presses contains a large variety of tools used with the drill press. Be curious.

OVERHEAD CABINETS

Within the overhead cabinets are reference books, plans, how to items etc. which may be checked out to be taken home to study. In the center cabinet is a collection of KREG Pocket hole system tools also available for check out. The right hand cabinet contains a variaty of smaller hand tools and items available for check out.

BELOW CABINET

In the cabinet next to the red drill press tools is a wet saw for ceramic tile, a tenoning tool with three sizes of tools, a circle saw package and a backup scroll saw all available for check out. At times other items may be stored there.

COMPOUND MITER SAW

There are two compound miter saws. They are identical except for the blade type, one is general use and the other is for finer work. This may change as the blades become dull and are replaced. Be sure to open the vacuum gate and turn on the system.

The saw is used for cross-cuts. Do not put a board in to cut along the grain like you might use a table saw.. It has been attempted. The saw has a two-stage trigger. Push the small lever to the left and at the same time squeeze the trigger. Note that there is a significant jump when the motor starts. The saw body is released by the pin on the back left side. Push down on the body, pull the pin out and the body will rise. The body can slide back and forth and can also be fixed. The use is guided by the width of your work. For narrow work (3 inches or less) a fixed and “chopped” process can be use. The body is locked in a non-slide position by the black knob on the top behind the motor. When using the slide action, pull the body all the way out, lower it to the work and push the body into the work. This helps ensure the work is stabilized against the fence.

The saw will make a vertical angle cut. Push the release lever in the front center of the table down to release the rotation ability. Rotate the body left or right as desired. There are special detents to lock the body at commonly used angles. If you stop at a detent the table will lock down. If you choose some other location you must depress the release lever in order to lock the table in position.

The blade can be angled vertically. The body is released by unlocking the three-pronged lock knob behind the body. The body will rotate counterclockwise up to 45 degrees. There are no detents. To rotate clockwise, turn the yellow pronged knob behind the body 90 degrees. The body will tilt to the right.

Once a compound or any other set up is established, do a dry run. Move the body through the desired cut line. Make sure you are not interfering with the fence or any other obstacle.

Return the saw to the READY position, clean the debris, close the gate.

EXPLAIN:

• On Switch – double action – hold to run - release to stop
• Release body – silver pin left rear near motor
• Slide body – release lock on top behind motor – pull body out -lower blade - push into work
• Lock body for chop action
• Rotate table -press lock handle down – note detents no lock required -not in detent must lock table
• Tilt blade – release lock -0three prong wheel in back – tilt to left – no detents – to tilt right rotate yellow lock ¼ turn – no detents to right – return to vertical by tilting to left past lock -return to vertical
• Use the vacuum system – open gate - when cleaning up open both gates and use vacuum hose as well as portable vacuums, brushes etc. to clean up. Close the gated.

CORDED HAND TOOLS

Behind the doors of the work table between the miter saws is a collection of corded hand tools available for check out. In some cases consumables such as sand paper, saw blades or other are available in the shop. When checking out a tool please fill in your information in the sign out register on the desk below the telephone. If you are unsure of the proper use or capability of a tool, call a HELPER.

MECHANICS TOOLS

This amenity is billed as a Woodshop. However, it is necessary to have mechanics tools to repair, change, install or maintain the tools. The silver toolbox contains a small selection of tools that can be checked out. The shop also has files, hacksaws, vises and other equipment that can be used for non woodworking projects.

DEWALT BATTERY OPERATED HAND TOOLS

THESE TOOLS ARE NOT AVAILABLE FOR CHECK OUT!!!!

These tools are only for use in the shop. Blades, sandpaper, drill bits and etc. are provided. You are welcome to use your own if what is provided is not adequate.

Once the tool is used, return it to the storage location.

Remove the battery and put it into the battery charger.

BAND SAW – SMALL

The shop has three band saws, small, medium and large. Use the one that suits the size or detail of your work. We have a variety of blades for each saw and if you need a change, please call a HELPER.

The band saw has a continuous blade and is able to cut curves and profiles. Raise the blade guide to expose the blade. Rule of thumb is that the blade exposure should be about ¼ inch above the work. This is to give the blade sufficient support from the guides to track or run true through the work. There is a lock in the back of the machine that releases the guide adjustment. When you set the height, lock the guide.

The continuous blade has a tooth set to the right and the next tooth set to the left. The purpose is to make a cut in the work that is slightly wider than the back of the blade so the blade does not bind in the work. The difficulty the shop has is that when a new blade is installed correctly one can use the miter guide and push the work through the blade to get a straight cut. The shop has too many people who want to cut a curve that is too tight for the width of the blade. This distorts the “set” of the teeth of the blade and it can no longer be capable of making a straight cut. Rule of thumb is the tightest RADIUS, that can be cut is 4 times the width of the blade. For instance, a ¼ inch wide blade can safely (without damage) can repeatedly cut a 1 inch radius (not a diameter). If you are trying to cut a tighter radius, use relief cuts – call a HELPER.

The saw has two other adjustments, the blade tension and the blade tilt. Please do not try to adjust these. They are on the back and the top of the saw. If the saw is not doing what you want or expect, call a HELPER.

When finished, clean up and set the blade guide down to the table to protect the blade, tell the next user you care and put the tools you used away.

EXPLAIN:

• On switch - Saw is not connected to the vacuum system
• Upper guide lock and lift knob – lock is on back side of saw
• Table tilt lock and adjustment knob – on back side of saw – a zero detent is available when returning table to ready position
• Blade tensioning knob – on top of saw – do not use
• Wheel wobble knob – on backside of saw – do not use
• Quick release lever – on back side of saw – do not use

When finished make sure table is not tilted, upper guide is lowered to table, saw dust and debris are cleaned up.

FURNITURE CLAMPS AND SAW GUIDE

The shop has plenty of long clamps and they can be checked out. In addition, there are two guide clamps that can used to clamp to a sheet of plywood and used with a circular saw to size the board.

BELOW THE SMALL BAND SAW

In the cabinet is a guillotine used to shave off small slices of wood such as when sizing picture frames. There is also a Leigh dovetail fixture. It requires special router bits which we have. The complete documentation of use is also available. In the next cabinet is a small miter saw which may be checked out. Under the fixed miter saw is a twelve-inch compound miter saw available for check out. Under the workbench with the vises mounted are c–clamps and on the floor are two robust folding sawhorses.

SCROLL SAW #1

The scroll saw is used to do fine work in small pieces. The blade can be released and reinstalled to cut inside of a pattern. When reinstalling the blade make sure there is enough tension. Pluck the blade and you should hear a note, not a dull sound. Pull the switch to start the saw. There is a slight delay. The speed is variable. You will learn from the type of wood, the width of blade and the type of cut what works best for you. The blade has a stroke of 1 inch. The work should be 1 inch or less to let the blade clear the cut before entering the work again.

EXPLAIN:

• On Switch – Pull the knob out – there is a slight delay – rotate knob to change speeds.
• The saw is not connected to the vacuum system.
• Complete work by proper cleaning.

OSCILLATING SPINDLE SANDER

The sander has various sized drums which move up and down as well as around and around. This is useful for sanding inside curves. Note that for each size drum there is a spacer for the base to reduce the amount of open room, reducing the probability of catching your finger or your work. To change drums remove the nut by holding the shaft on the flats at the top and loosening the nut. When installing the next drum make sure to use the largest available washer on top that does not overlap the sand paper. Tighten the nut to compress the rubber drum that will expand and capture the sandpaper.’

Pay attention to the light orange or white block of rubber. This is a sandpaper cleaner. Too many users treat the sanding tools as if they are grinders, pushing against the sandpaper much too hard. This quickly results in filling the sandpaper with debris which covers the surface to the point one is no longer sanding but burnishing, defeating the intent of using the sander. The sander should be used with LIGHT pressure. As the sand paper accumulates debris over time the cleaner should be taken to apply the synthetic rub “erasure” to remove the debris, restoring the sandpaper and continue working. Use of the “erasure” can be with any sander including palm or belt hand sanders. It will significantly prolong the life of the paper and make the job go faster.

EXPLAIN:

• On switch
• How to change drums – match table ring to correct size- secure drum with correct size flat washer
• How to use synthetic rubber to clean drums
• Use the vacuum system
• Clean up

SCROLL SAW #2

Similar to number 1

SMALL BELT SANDER

This is used for small items and also to prep lathe tools for final sharpening. Again, please use the synthetic rubber erasure to keep the sandpaper clean and effective.

EXPLAIN:

• On Switch
• Table tilt
• No vacuum

DRUM SANDER

The drum sander is used to smooth large surface items such as an edge glue up of boards. Before using use a hand sander to remove the excessive glue on the surfaces.. This will prolong the life of the sand paper. The work is placed on the moving table ensuring space between the work and the drum sander. The drum is turned on and the feed table is turned on. The work moves forward. Lower the drum slowly until you hear the sanding engage the work. Let the work pass through. Run the same side through again to ensure the full surface has been covered. Lower the drum no more than 2 increment (about 1/32 of an inch) turn of the adjustment screw. This is very light work. It is not machining or grinding. Going too fast will only gum up the sandpaper and destroy it. Continue to gradually sand the work until you reach the desired finish.

EXPLAIN:

• On switch – one for drum another for work advance table/variable speed
• Drum position adjustment – lower drum head to the work ad when engagement of sandpaper is heard, stop adjusting.
• Use the vacuum system

AIR COMPRESSOR

The air compressor is usually turned off. Use the small lever on the right side to turn the unit on. There is only one outlet located over the bench between the table saws. Various air driven tools are in the other bench between the table saws. You are also welcome to bring your own tools in for use.

WORKBENCHES

The workbenches, vises and stops are available for use. If you are going to leave your work for glue drying or future attention, please affix you name to the work to avoid it being used in someone else’s project. Other items are stored here. Be curious.

COMBINATION BELT/DISC SANDER

This unit is fairly self explanatory. However, as with all sanding equipment, take your time. This is not a grinder. Use the synthetic erasure. Please do not make any adjustments to the tracking. The tables tilt have detents and must be returned to READY when you are finished. Note that it takes about 1 hour to replace the disc due to glue removal. Do not use it as a grinding wheel. The disc should last months if not years if properly used. Use the eraser.

EXPLAIN:

• On switch – both disc and belt run simultaneously
• Table tilt – remove detent – lock table in place – return to READY
• Use the vacuum system – clean up thoroughly

LARGE BAND SAW

The large band saw is useful for very thick wood projects and for resawing. Resawing is to take a board such as a one by six and cut it into two one by 1//2 pieces, cutting the thickness to produce a thinner board rather than running the board through the planer and discarding half or more. To do resawing please call a HELPER for your first attempt.

Note that when turning off the saw there is a large amount of inertia. If you do a stop cut and want to back the work away from the blade, turn off the saw and wait for it to come to a stop before backing out the work to avoid binding the saw and getting a result you don’t want. The table tilts but is not advised. Ask a HELPER.

EXPLAIN:

• On switch – pull/push
• Upper guide lock and lift knobs – release lock on back of saw – turn crank to raise guide – return guide to table surface when done
• Blade tensioning - do not use
• Blade quick release lever – do not use
• Blade wheel wobble knob – do not use
• Guide fence – typically used during resaw process – otherwise can be moved out of position or taken off saw entirely – return when finished
• Use the vacuum system – clean up

MEDIUM BAND SAW

The medium band saw is a very universal machine that will fit the needs of many projects. The table of the saw is easily tilted by releasing the two lock screws below the table. Returning the table to the neutral or ready position is detent controlled to obtain a 90 degree setting to the blade.

The upper blade guide mis friction controlled. Releasing the lock mechanism allows the guide to be raised to a useable position. A lock holds it in position.

The saw is connected to the vacuum system.

THICKNESS PLANER

The thickness planer is used to reduce the thickness of a piece of wood. The planer is connected to the vacuum system and this MUST be used. The planer produces a great amount of residue and will plug up and possibly catch on fire if the vacuum system is not used.

The on switch is two stage operation. The red knob has a serrated ring on the back side. Turning the ring releases the red knob and it springs out from the control panel. Then the green button can be pushed to start the planer motor.

To use the planer, lower the table until the work can be inserted with out resistance. Turn on the planer. Slowly raise the bed. The feed mechanism will engage the work and it will move through the planer. Continue to raise the bed until the blades engage the work. Stop raising the bed, allow the work to pass through. Collect the work at the exit and return it to the input side without turning the work over. Pass the work through the planer a second time. This will ensure the entire surface has been planed to the same level. Now the bed can be raised. Please take your time and only raise the bed about ¼ turn of the handle per each pass. There is no rush. Run the work through. After two or three passes the work can be turned over and the remaining rough side can be planed. Continue raising the bed after each pass until you achieve the desired thickness.

Planning several boards to the same thickness or planning boards with cups or twists have requirements that should you try to do this you may wish to consult one of the Woodshop helpers.

EXPLAIN:

• The vacuum system must be used
• Only clean, new material
• The on mechanism is two staged.
• Do not hurry, take small cuts and the finish will be much better.

CONTRACTORS TABLE SAW

The contractors table saw is used for most small and medium projects.

To raise the blade, the turn crank does not have a lock mechanism. Crank to lift or lower. There is a splitter or skiving knife behind the blade. This is used to prevent the work from squeezing down on the blade as the cut progresses. The knife can be removed if necessary. The saw is connected to the vacuum system. By now you should know the drill. The fence is locked and released by the lever on the right hand side below the table. Push the lever to release the lock, pull the lever to engage the lock. This does not take a great deal of effort. The fence can be placed in six different locations determined by the fixed pins and the orientation of the fence, left or right on the pins. Release the front and back engagement locks, rotate the fence to remove it from the pins and then relocate that as desired. Engage the lock levers on the front and back. DO NOT MOVE THE PINS. They are set up to locate the fence properly.

The blade can be tilted by releasing the tilt lock lever behind the blade lift control. If more accurate adjustment is required, the shop has an electronic angle gage for use.

Dado blades. Anti-kickback fingers and other equipment is available. Ask a Woodshop helper.

EXPLAIN:

• ON/OFF
• Vacuum system.
• Lift mechanism
• Tilt mechanism
• Fence lock release/ relocation, lock

TABLE ROUTER AND LIFT MECHANISM

The router is used to put a profile on the edge of a work, produce grooves and other profiles in a work and other processes such as producing dovetails or box joints.

The machine has two on/off switches, a master switch that controls all power, and a working switch for use during the process.
The master switch should be turned off when changing the tool in the router.

There are two types of tools, one has a bearing or pin at the top that the work can be held against. This type of tool can be used free hand. The second type does not have the pin or bearing, and the work must be stabilized using the fence or the miter gage to stabilized the work and prevent it from moving.

The tool is installed by using the lift mechanism to raise the router and access the tool collet. The collet is relaxed to allow the tool to be inserted. Then the collect must be locked down to secure the tool. Two collet sizes are available, ¼ inch and ½ in depending upon the shaft size of the tool.

Once the tool is installed the height of the tool must be set to achieve the desired profile. Use a piece of scrap wood to test the tool location. Raise the tool and test the cut until the desired location is achieved. If the tool is raised too high, back the tool down and raise again using the dial indicator to manage the change. It is best to finish the height adjustment by raising the tool to eliminate the effect of lash that might let the tool fall if your last adjustment was to lower to tool.

Make you cuts on the grain side of a work first. Generally breakout of the work will occur but will be removed when the tool is run with the grain.

Move the work into the turning direction of the tool. Inside routing can also be accomplished by running in the opposite direction. Take your time.

EXPLAIN:

• Two on/off switches.
• Different types of tools
• How to install the tool
• Vacuum system.
• Fence set up and adjustment – it does not have to be parallel to the XXXCX

JOINTER

The jointer is used to prepare rough sawn lumber for the thickness planer, then used to square up the edges and prepare the work for glue up or cutting to dimension.

A rough sawn board that is cupped or twisted will be very difficult to pass through the planer to achieve a flat board. The planer has two hold down mechanisms that will flatten out a cupped or twisted board before passing it through the cutters. Once the board has passed through, the board will return to the cupped or twisted condition.

To overcome this, a board can be passed over a jointer until the board has a sufficiently flat suffice that it does can pass through the planer and not retain the cup or twist.

After the board has been passed through the planer and two parallel surfaces have been achieved, the board can return to the jointer and one edge can be made square with the two flat faces. The last side is not run over the jointer.
The board edges may not be parallel. The board should be passed through the table saw to make the two side parallel and square. If necessary, the table saw side could be passed over the jointer for a finer finished edge.

The outfeed table of the jointer is fixed. The thickness of cut is determined by the height of the infeed table. The fence is usually square to the table but it is always good to check. The fence is angularly adjustable. The thickness of cut can be determined roughly by the distance between the infeed table and the fence.
Don’t be in a hurry. 1/32 is more than enough and the more finer passes made the better the result.

EPLAIN:

• Vacuum system
• Height adjustment
• Squareness of fence
• Only clean, new material

CABINET MAKERS TABLE SAW

The cabinet makers table saw is for cutting large or long pieces of work that are difficult to handle on the contractors table saw.

The blade has a lift control and atilt control. There is a riving knife and a shield with anti-kick back features that can be used are removed as desired.

The saw can use dado cutters and molding heads.

Ther is a safety interlock above the on off switch. It is the yellow disk and should be removed when changing the blade.

LATHE

The lathe might be considered the most dangerous machine in the shop. It is your responsibility to secure the work properly. All other machines have a base or a fence or both to support the work before cutting. You also have control of the cutting tool. It is not secured in the machine and if not properly handled can become a problem. In order to be able to use the lathe requires a short training and demonstration of capability session that is arranged through the training coordinator.

This concludes the orientation session.